Dipladenia – Mandevilla splendens – Mandevilla splendens – Indoor plants – grow dipladenia

Evergreen climbing plant native to Central and South America. The thin, fleshy stems grow quickly, this plant is grown in hanging pots, or as a climber, aided by trellises or braces. The leaves are oval, dark, shiny, thick, slightly pubescent on the bottom page; in spring and summer it produces a cascade of large trumpet-shaped flowers, grouped in delicately scented racemes, red, pink or white, with a lemon-yellow throat.

In places with mild winters, they can be cultivated also in full earth in the garden, or they can be treated also as annual garden plants. It is advisable to prune the branches slightly at the beginning of spring or in autumn, to avoid that the plant lignifies too much in the lower part, losing the leaves. It is also known as mandevilla splendens.

Mandevilla splendens

Exposure

fiori Mandevilla splendens The Mandevilla Splendens likes very bright locations, even sunny, but also grows well in the shade. When placed in a completely shady place, it produces few flowers and many leaves. Fears the frost, should not be exposed to temperatures below 5-8 ° C, so in summer you can put in the garden or on the terrace, but must be immediately withdrawn into the house with the arrival of the autumn cold.

In the places where the winter is mild, it is cultivated also in full earth; in this case, with the cold, it loses the leaves, which will come back in spring; in full earth, it can reach even the size of more than 3-4 metres.

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The dipladenia

Dipladenia is a plant from South America. It was once part of the Mandevilla genus, but in recent years it has formed a genus in its own right also for the different climatic needs. It has become very popular because it grows quickly, is resistant and blooms with good continuity from spring to autumn.

It belongs to the Apocynaceae family. In all, it is about 30 evergreen species, usually with a climbing habit. They are bushy lianas that can reach several meters in height and are therefore suitable for cultivation in the garden rather than in the apartment. The leaves are shiny, lanceolate, about 6 cm long and 4 cm wide. The flowers are bell-shaped and open in 5 lobes. Depending on the species, the colour varies from white-yellow to pink and purple red.

GENERALITA ‘

Substrate

  Normal, rich and well drained

Exposure

 Bright, no direct light

Irrigation

 Abundant without stagnation, requires vaporization

Fertilizer

 Every 10 days during flowering

Adversity

 Mites, cochineal, root rot

Minimum temperature

 8-10°C

Ideal temperature

 21°C

Watering

It doesn’t need big quantities of water and can bear without any problems short periods of drought; water regularly, leaving the substratum to dry slightly between one watering and the other. In winter, water sporadically. For a better flowering of the mandevilla splendens we suggest to supply some fertilizer for flowering plants every 8-10 days in the vegetative period, from March to October, and at least once a month in winter.

Cultivation

Their bearing, as we have said, is mostly climbing or at most decumbent. They should therefore be grown in pots (or directly in the ground), but giving them the opportunity to cling with the tendrils to a support. Excellent can be an arch, a net or a lattice. They can also be kept in pots (rather large) and cascaded in the manner of the surfinie.

Land

Mandevilla splendens prefers loose, well-drained soils, very rich in organic matter. An optimal compound can be prepared by mixing balanced universal soil and sand in equal parts, with a small dose of humus.

Multiplication

It happens by cutting, in spring or in summer, utilizing small branches of 7-10 cm; the rooting of the cuttings is usually rapid motion, about 3-4 weeks, the small plants thus obtained can be immediately treated as adult plants, placing them in a single container. The fastest method for getting new plants is, without any doubt, the cutting.

It is necessary to cut, without creating fraying and with a disinfected scissor, a semi-woody branch, about 8 cm long, at the height of a knot. The basal leaves should be removed and sprinkled with a powdered or liquid root product.

It is then necessary to put it in a half bottle of transparent plastic (which has previously been drilled with drainage holes at the bottom) filled with a very light substrate (ideal is sand, peat and agri-perlite in equal parts) that must be kept constantly wet. All this should be covered with a transparent bag and kept at a temperature of about 25°C in the shade. Usually the cuttings will start to vegetate in about a month.

Thanks to the transparent bottle we can control the development of the roots.

When the plant emits the first leaves we will be allowed to remove the plastic cap and wait for a good root development and then move it to a final container with a richer substrate.

Pruning dipladenia

mandevilla splendens fiori Dipladenia is a plant that blooms substantially on new branches, so those grown in the year. It is therefore advisable to prune well every autumn before withdrawing the plant.

We have to cut the very low branches, at about 5 cm from the ground. This will allow the plant not to waste energy during the cold season and will avoid the possible onset of mold.

In the spring, the plant will be rejected again and we will have a rich, lush plant with abundant blooms.

CALENDARIO LAVORI

MAGGIO—OTTOBRE

Flowering, irrigation, vaporization, fertilization

OTTOBRE

Withdrawal in cold greenhouse, pruning

OTTOBRE –APRILE

Keep the substrate and environment slightly moist

APRILE

Repotting

Pests and diseases dipladenia

Sometimes these plants are attacked by mites, aphids and cochineal. Dipladenia are very resistant plants and are rarely the victims of insects or pests.

They can be attacked by mites, especially if they are exposed to direct sunlight and in a too dry environment. In this case it is useful to move the plant to a less exposed and warm area and increase the ambient humidity.

It is also advantageous, especially if the plant is placed on a paved surface that heats up considerably during the afternoon, to raise it a few inches so that it does not come into complete contact with the surface and thus prevent the heat from being transmitted to the container and substrate overheating it. The last ratio is certainly the use of acaricides.

They can be attacked also by the cochineal, especially if the exposure is too shady. If the attack is light, the insects can be removed with cotton sticks soaked in alcohol. Otherwise, a systemic insecticide and perhaps a mineral oil should be distributed.

Cures

Insieme di Dipladenie For a good care of the Dipladenia plant it is very important to use a slow release fertilizer, in the specific doses of 30 grams per decaliter of soil.

Although the plant itself does not require special attention, it is important to keep the soil always moist, especially during the summer, and proceed to a frequent pruning being a climbing plant is recommended to cut the branches at least at the beginning of spring and autumn, to prevent this plant lignifies too much in the lower part, losing leaves and weakening. It should never be exposed to temperatures below 5°C.

Through these simple and easy devices, a splendid flowering of the plant will be favoured: only if the plant is placed in a completely shaded place, it is destined to produce few flowers, compensated by a rich presence of leaves.

Temperatures

As we have said, they are plants from the rainforests of the Tropics. Therefore, in order to obtain good results, it is necessary to try to reproduce as much as possible the conditions of the original environment.

The ideal exposure will therefore be the half shade: they must certainly be placed in a well-lit place, but not with direct light: this could burn the leaves and make the flowers last much less.

They must also be preserved from the currents and wind that could compromise their growth and abort the flowers.

The ideal temperature for flowering is around 20°C. However, they do not usually have problems with higher temperatures as long as the right exposure is respected.

In winter they must be withdrawn into the interior practically throughout the peninsula as they can not stand temperatures below 8 ° C. Ideally, however, they should be kept at around 13°C. Let’s remember that they need to go into vegetative rest during the bad season. It is therefore good to keep them around that temperature and not at higher temperatures (those that are in the apartments in winter). If we do not follow this advice we risk seeing very few flowers in the spring.

It is therefore right to keep them in a cold greenhouse or in a little or not at all heated environment.

Substrate

In this respect, they are not particularly demanding plants. They want a good substrate composed of garden earth, sand and peat in equal parts. If we want we can add a handful of seasoned manure or a little granular fertilizer for flowering plants.

What is certainly needed is a thick drainage layer at the bottom of the container. We will then have to prepare at least 2 cm (but this depends on the size of the plant and the size of the pot) of gravel, shards or expanded clay pearls.

Repotting

dipladenia rampicante They’re plants that grow pretty fast. They should therefore be repotted at least every two years or at least when you see the roots sprouting from the drainage holes or from the surface.

It is an operation to be carried out in the autumn or at the end of the winter, before the vegetative restart.

It is advisable to gradually increase the size of the container and each time slightly tick the roots to remove any “felted” portions and stimulate the growth of new and healthy.

If our plants were kept in the ground, it is better to wait for the night temperatures to reach around 10°C to proceed with the explantation, the cleaning of the root part and the insertion in containers for the wintering in a cool room.

Irrigation

The dipladenia needs a constantly humid substratum, but not soaked. Therefore, during the period of activity, it will be necessary to irrigate regularly, without exaggerating, and making sure that the excess water is well drained through the drainage holes.

Being a plant coming from the rainforests, it also needs a high atmospheric humidity, otherwise the leaves will flower poorly and deteriorate. It is therefore necessary to engage several times a day (especially during the hottest periods) with abundant vaporization of the vegetation. It is also excellent to place the container on a saucer filled with expanded clay and kept wet at all times (but without the water reaching the drainage holes).

In this way the evaporating liquid will maintain the right degree of humidity around the specimen.

We can also work several times a day wetting the floor around the plant (especially if it is a paving that heats up easily) with the same result.

In winter, watering will clearly be very thinned out. The ideal is to keep the substrate just moist and possibly do some vaporization if the heating of our house would make the air very dry.

Fertilization

fiore mandevilla Like all very flowering plants, it needs important and continuous fertilization. It can be done in different ways.

A good option is to already prepare a bottom fertiliser by mixing a few handfuls of slow release granular fertiliser for flowering plants with the soil. The same (if we do not repot that year) can be distributed on the surface and then slightly buried. Usually the administration must be repeated every three months (but it is always good to follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

Also excellent sticks to be inserted into the soil that worked in a similar way to the granular fertilizer.

A liquid fertiliser with a high potassium content can also be used as a last resort. It can be administered in a single solution every ten days or inserted very diluted in the daily irrigation.

Many fertilizers have as option the leaf administration that, usually, gives excellent and immediate results. In this case it can be a really interesting alternative as the plant needs frequent nebulisations.

Dipladenia variety

DIPLADENIA SANDERI of Brazilian origin, produces large pink flowers and has large oval leaves leathery.

DIPLADENIA BOLIVIENSIS is native to Bolivia and Ecuador. The stems are woody and branched. It produces abundant white flowers with yellow throats, rather small.

DIPLADENIA SPENDENS produces magnificent inflorescences composed of 4-6 deep pink flowers with a yellow throat. It is a very vigorous species.

NOCIVITÀ The whole plant is poisonous. It is therefore necessary to pay the utmost attention in the presence of children and pets. It should also be considered that the sap can cause skin irritation, so it is better when we proceed with pruning or repotting use waterproof gloves.

Dipladenia with yellow leaves

Dipladenia con foglie gialle As dipladenia is a tropical plant it can happen that the climate and environment in which these plants are grown in our latitudes is not exactly ideal and one of the main consequences of an environment not suitable for dipladenia is the yellowing of the leaves. You can find dipladenia plants with yellow leaves for several reasons.

One of the main reasons for foliar yellowing is incorrect irrigation. Dipladenia may have leaves that turn yellow either because too much water has been given or because too little water has been given. Another possible cause for this plant to have yellow leaves is wrong exposure. A place where there is too little light can be the cause of insufficient photosynthesis and therefore progressive leaf yellowing.

Other possible causes that lead the plant to have yellow leaves may be related to the soil and the presence or not of nutrients in it. Especially in the cultivation of potted plants in fact there may be problems related to the lack of essential nutrients for the growth of plants, such as macro and trace elements.

A useful expedient to avoid that the leaves of our dipladenia grown in pots turn yellow is to repot once every 2-3 years. Repotting is essential to replace the soil of the plant and go to renew the soil with a greater amount of organic matter.

Dipladenia – Mandevilla splendens: Dipladenia in winter

Unless you live in an area with a Mediterranean climate with very mild winters, dipladenia is a plant that in winter could have many problems if you do not take some simple steps. First of all, dipladenia is a plant that suffers greatly from the cold of the winter months so in areas with a continental climate will be difficult to survive this species.

Secondly, since dipladenia is a plant of tropical origin, it will be essential to ensure the plant a high number of hours of light, even by intervening with artificial light should it be necessary.

Without adequate light and temperature, dipladenia has very little chance of surviving in winter.