This kind of orchid does not exist in nature, but comes from the hybridization between some species, such as Oncidium, Odontoglossum and Miltonia.
For this reason there are change with the most varied blooms, with flowers of small, medium and large size, tigered or of a single colour, yellow, red, pink and white.
They produce elongated pseudobulbs, rather thick, from which depart some ribbon-like leaves, not very long; in spring and summer, between the leaves, develops a thin erect stem, long up to 30-40 cm, which carries several buds, which bloom in succession. After the flowering under the stem, a new pseudobulb develops.
Plants that are easy to grow, they are easy to find in nurseries. After the flowering, we can cut off the stem carrying the flowers, under which will develop a swollen, well rigid, pseudobulb; when the pseudobulbs are well developed, we shall place the plants in a cool place, avoiding to water too often, for at least 8-10 weeks, in this way we shall favour the production of a new stem and the new flowering the following year.
are grown in a bright place, but far from the sun, which could cause showy burns to the leaves. The best temperature during the vegetative period, from March to September, is about 18-20°C; during the cold months it is advisable to place the plants in a cooler place, with temperatures between 10 and 15°C.C.
L The ideal exposure for a fast and harmonious growth must be extremely bright, but avoiding direct sunshine (especially in the middle hours of the day or in the summer months). The advice is, at home, to place it near a window to the south or west, to be screened with a light-colored curtain in moments of maximum brightness.
During the summer it is possible to move the pot outside, under a patio or in the shade of a deciduous tree.
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From March to September, water regularly, every week, if possible by immersion, or by immersing the pots in water for a few minutes, and then store them in a dry place; during this period we will fertilize the plants every 25-30 days, with specific fertilizer for orchids. During the cold months we should water about once a month, or even less if the plants are kept in a place with temperatures below 10°C.
During the growing season the substrate should always be slightly moist: usually it is necessary to intervene once every 7-10 days, monitoring that the roots do not become too silvery. In winter it can be enough even once every 20 days.
You can water from above, even if the method by immersion is often safer (letting it drain well).
However, the health of the plant is determined by the ambient humidity, especially when temperatures rise. Frequent vaporization is excellent, but we can also use electric humidifiers or place the pot on a container filled with expanded clay and water (but avoid that it comes into contact with the roots).
The use of rainwater or demineralised water is essential for all uses.
LA CAMBRIA IN BREVE
Famiglia, genere, genere, specie
Orchidaceae, Ibrido, x Cambria
Piante des Interno
Altezza a maturità
Velocità di crescita (Velocità der Kreszita)
Die Temperatur ist ideal für die Dauer der Vegetation.
Die Temperatur ist ideal, um die vegetativen Eigenschaften zu erhalten.
Molto luminosa, ohne Sohle diretto
Rinde, Torba di Sfagno, Agriperlit; Materiali inerti
Equilibrato, ogni 20 giorni
Terreno und Substrat
ist die Behandlung von epifitischen, amano-terrenischen und molto-bedingten Störungen; im Allgemeinen wird ein Substrat verwendet, das die Cortecce, die Fasern des Kokosnussfadens oder der Osmunda, die Torba des Sfagno belastet. Very large plants may need to be repotted, we will intervene after flowering.
Being an epiphyte, it needs a practically inert substrate. Usually, a mixture of bark (well washed and sterilized pine bark, left to soak for a long time), sphagnum peat and perlite is utilized. However, we can also opt for polystyrene or other inert material. A good choice is also the creation of a “raft” by tying the roots to wood and waiting for them to cling to it (as they would in nature).
occurs by division of the heads, each single pseudobulb, provided with a vigorous root, will be divided by the head and repotted individually.
Pests and diseases
are afraid of mites and cochineal; conditions of poor ventilation, poor ambient humidity, or excessive humidity of the bread of the earth, may cause the drying up of the leaves, and also the rottenness of the roots and of the pseudobulbs.
The Cambria does not require a particular climate: they are perfectly located in a medium heated apartment. During the vegetative period, from March to November, it is good, to stimulate growth, to keep the temperatures constantly between 20 and 25 ° C. A colder environment will allow them to enter into vegetative rest (however, it is recommended never to fall below 8 ° C). Excessive heat can instead cause dehydration, especially if the ambient humidity is low.
The repotting is usually done every two years, so as not to disturb excessively the root system. It is usually done in spring when the new jets emitted by the plant measure a few cm.
We water the substrate very well and wait for the roots to be soft before extracting everything, so as to minimize the damage. We carefully examine and remove all parts that are dead or show signs of rotting. We always use sharp and disinfected scissors. Finally, we dust with suitable products (propamocarb, fosetil-al). Alternatively (especially if there were no serious problems) we can also opt for a teaspoon of cinnamon powder.
Let’s avoid watering for at least 10 days, possibly helping the plant with frequent foliar vaporization.
Cambria orchid vase
It is always good to prefer not too large and transparent pots because they will allow you to monitor the state of the roots and avoid water stagnation. You can reuse the same container, but after careful disinfection. Let’s make sure that there are many holes for water draining and aeration.
IL CALENDARIO DELLA CAMBRIA
End of winter (end of winter)
April-May (but is also possible in other months)
End of winter (at vegetative recovery)
Fertilization of Cambria
The Cambria want specific liquid fertilizers for orchids: we recommend those NPK 20-20-20. They should be administered every about 20 days, wetting the substrate well beforehand (to avoid burns).
Cambria: How to make Cambria flourish again
The main difficulty in these plants is to obtain new blooms, year after year (even if the Cambria are spontaneously very flowering). The secret is to reproduce the climate in which their ancestors lived: simulate a light winter season and induce vegetative rest.
In practice, from November-December we move the vase to a room that is not very heated (from 12 to 16° C) and not very well lit, thus regulating the irrigation. In February-March, let’s return it to normal conditions: a stem should be produced from the pseudobulbs produced during the previous summer.
In the apartment the cycle can be forced at any time, monitoring temperatures and brightness.